{"id":229,"date":"2022-02-25T17:16:26","date_gmt":"2022-02-25T17:16:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/tzh.hfi.mybluehost.me\/?p=229"},"modified":"2022-03-17T16:32:56","modified_gmt":"2022-03-17T16:32:56","slug":"340a-atlantic-crossing-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dev.billinghamagency.com\/?p=229","title":{"rendered":"340A Atlantic Crossing – Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Download PDF of parts 1 and 2 of this article with all images, here.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was two o\u2019clock in the morning, and while muted from its peak, the sun still leaked around the blinds at my window in our Narsarsuaq hotel. All was quiet, I was tired, and I needed sleep \u2014 the next day we would launch across a long stretch of very cold and unforgiving water. We would lift off from this secure strip of land, turn east, and trust my machine and skills fully for four hours where if anything went wrong, the outcome could be very dire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
L to R: Mike Hahn, James Creamer, and me – \u201ccrossing the pond.\u201d<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Narsarssuaq was magical, as was all of Greenland we\u2019d seen. Majestic peaks soar from the turquoise fjords all around the valley where the airport lies, and icebergs lumber slowly by in the bay just off the end of the runway. Researchers we had met at the hotel had gone out for a couple hours and caught cod and char right off the road next to the runway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you read Part 1 of this series in the December 2019 issue, you know that my goal was to cross the ocean to Scotland, where my mother\u2019s family was originally from before a potato shortage sent them to North America. This dovetailed nicely with fellow TTCF member Mike Hahn\u2019s goal to tour Greenland at low altitude. The Greenland part of the trip was now mostly behind us except for a quick tour around the tip and some of the west coast.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In truth, the upcoming leg wasn\u2019t different from any other \ufb02ight \u2014 we plan, we factor for the safety margins required, process all the information that enables our go\/no-go decisions, and con\ufb01rm we and our plane are ready (you use the TTCF FRAT, right?). The airplane doesn\u2019t know it is over water, and there\u2019s no reason the \ufb02ight should be any different from any other of the thousands my plane has made before.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But this \ufb02ight struck me differently and caused me to dive deeper into risk assessment; not so much the risk of the weather, \ufb02ight conditions, or the plane, which are quanti\ufb01able, but the deeper assessment of what was driving me to make the \ufb02ight in the \ufb01rst place.  Why was it so important to me to do this? Could I turn home and be satis\ufb01ed, or did I really have to complete this trip?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This last question was the only one that mattered. I realized my answer was a resounding: \u201cYes, I have to do it.\u201d If I didn\u2019t \ufb01nish the trip, I\u2019d regret it for the rest of my life! Once this became clear to me, I slept great.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Narsarsuaq to Reykjavik<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We departed downwind from Narsarsuaq – the penalty of 10 knots on the tail is nothing compared to the impossible climb that is required in the opposite direction to clear the hills and icecap. One becomes used to tailwind landings and departures in the coastal fjords of Greenland!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was a perfect day with the sun \ufb01lling the Narsarsuaq fjord, making the turquoise water below and the statue of Leif Erikson on the far shore gleam. This is certainly one of the most beautiful places I have been on earth, and I was a little sad to be leaving it behind.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This superlative didn\u2019t last long, however, as the initial VFR clearance we\u2019d gotten \u2013 in order to meander along the fjord and climb to the south and west around the peaks of the very rugged terrain \u2013 gave us vistas that consistently topped the previous ones!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a short while, we were over top of the ice cap climbing to the east, while maintaining VFR views to the south coast and the east coast ahead. Our weather brie\ufb01ng showed clear skies and light winds until we reach 300 miles or so off the coast of Iceland. And while weather data gets a bit less speci\ufb01c in the oceanic areas, ground temperatures in Iceland showed we would likely encounter some icing off the coast but would be \ufb01ne if we descended to a lower level. According to Jim Creamer, our Atlantic crossing specialist who accompanied Mike and me, these were pretty typical conditions around Iceland. The weather develops and changes almost continuously.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When \ufb01ling my \ufb02ight plan I requested and was given FL230, rather than the FL250 standard \ufb02ight level for VHF communications with Gander Oceanic control. I wasn\u2019t sure that I\u2019d get it,<\/p>\n\n\n\n

but that last 2000 feet makes quite a difference in comfort and performance in the 340, so if we could get it, we thought, \u201cWhy not?\u201d However when we were handed to Iceland Radio, they continued asking if we were climbing (without ever stating any basis for why we needed to cancel the VFR \ufb02ight plan we were on, which we would then abandon to pick up the IFR at a waypoint near the coast of Greenland). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The controller was very pleasant, but as we were handed off to Gander Oceanic control, I was informed that they were \u201cgoing to have to report me.\u201d For what, we still didn\u2019t know! Our best guess is that we \ufb01led (and our plan was accepted) for FL230, rather than FL250 (the purpose of which is to assure VHF communications would be maintained.) Our plan was to \ufb02y FL230 and test the radio with Gander and request a climb by bouncing with an overhead commercial \ufb02ight on guard, if it was needed. (It wasn\u2019t\u2026and Gander was \ufb01ne with FL230 after the hand-off from Greenland Radio.) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

No consequences from the \u201creport\u201d have occurred, and there were no issues at all on the return trip through Greenland. Our best guess is that this may have been a case of a lack of coordination between the \ufb01ling agency at Narsarsuaq and Greenland Radio; safe radio communications were maintained at all times, and the 340 breathed a bit easier at FL230! I would \ufb01le for it again but would also probably discuss with each sector to regain the approval we \ufb01rst received (we did get the approval from Gander but did not discuss or gain the approval with Greenland Radio Control).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

IMC and Icing Ahead!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

As expected, at about 300 miles off the coast of Iceland, the clouds started to gather.  The OAT was -20C, so we expected to see some icing. We were right, but it was light icing only, and intermittent. We continued on at FL230 for another \ufb01fty miles or so until the layers disappeared and the light rime started building more quickly. At 250 miles to go to the coast, I requested a block altitude down to 8,000 feet from Iceland Radio in order to allow us to descend until we either saw a good layer or broke out below the freezing layer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Being based in the upper Midwest, I\u2019m used to planning for and \ufb02ying in icing conditions.  Plus, my new boots and icing systems were all working well. Regardless, I sure don\u2019t like to stay in any icing without having a plan for getting out of it. We were denied the block altitude request due to other traf\ufb01c outbound from Ke\ufb02avik, but we were cleared for an initial decent to 17,000. We were still picking up ice at that level, so we requested a more aggressive descent<\/p>\n\n\n\n

to 11,000, thinking if we hit a layer we liked we\u2019d just request to stay there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We did end up going all the way down to 11,000 and the icing stopped. It was a bit unnerving to be descending down towards the cold ocean I knew lay below but Jim\u2019s stories of \ufb02ying 172s across the Atlantic at a few thousand feet to avoid icing made my concerns seem a bit silly!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We stayed in solid IMC almost all the way to the \ufb01nal approach \ufb01x on the ILS at Reykjavik. It was quite an experience to spend about an hour and a half in IMC over an ocean, teeing up an approach, and then busting out to see the incredible country situated so remotely in the North Atlantic. What a sight! Beautiful mountains to our north, rugged coast to our south and east, the beautiful city of Reykjavik passing below us, and the tower of Hallgr\u00edmskirkja, the City\u2019s major church tower landmark and highest point, ahead of us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As we touched down in light and blustery rain, I taxied clear of the runway and it hit me that I had just \ufb01nished the \ufb02ight that had kept me awake the night before. In hindsight, it honestly didn\u2019t seem such a big deal, and that would be the last time I fretted at all about a water crossing. As with many things in life, experience puts things in perspective and widens our boundaries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reykjav\u00edk and the FBO \u2013 New Friends for Life<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Arnor Styrmisson and Sigurdur \u201cSiggy\u201d Sigurdsson manage the newest FBO at Reykjavik airport (aptly named \u201cReykjavik FBO\u201d). I\u2019ve never had such a welcome and great introduction to a place as we had here! Not only were customs and fuel a non-issue thanks to Arnor and Siggy, but coffee, information about anything we wanted, good jokes, and friendship is a given with these guys! In fact, we found ourselves in Reykjavik for a few nights, and on one of them Arnor got us a reservation at 3 Frakkar, a spectacular and non-touristy restaurant with truly Icelandic fare. Here we ate hashed \ufb01sh, fermented shark, Minke whale, and Puf\ufb01n \u2013 things we just can\u2019t get at home. I am sold on the whale and hashed \ufb01sh which were excellent! But I\u2019ll need to keep working on fermented shark and Puf\ufb01n!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I can\u2019t speak more highly of Reykjavik FBO. This place is a gem, as are the folks who run it. In fact, we hit it off so well that Arnor hopped in the 340 with us on our way back home, making the return trip to Minnesota and staying with my wife and me for nearly a week, \ufb02ying to Oshkosh with me and meeting many other TTCF members at the AirVenture gathering. My wife and I also returned to Iceland in the fall, spending more time with Arnor and his family, with whom we\u2019ve come to be great friends. We are planning further \ufb02ying adventures with Arnor here in the US this coming summer. Both Arnor and his dad are accomplished pilots, and it was an unexpected blessing of the trip that we met such wonderful international pilot friends!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reykjavik to Wick \u2013 First Departure<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our time in Reykjavik was a wonderful break from the many hours in the cockpit, but we had intended only two nights. On our third morning, we awoke refreshed and made our way to the plane, saying our goodbyes to our new friends and \ufb01ling our \ufb02ight plan to Wick, Scotland. Departure was into IFR conditions at 1,000 feet, but the weather was benign, and we would be on top at about 8,000.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shortly after lift-off, our \ufb01rst gremlins of the trip arrived. My annunciator was showing that the right alternator wasn\u2019t functioning and in addition the vacuum indicator was pegged at its maximum. Lovely. We continued to climb as we assessed the situation, popping into<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the IMC as we requested an altitude hold while we worked the issues. The alternator appeared to be a just an annunciator indication problem \u2014 the EMS showed the right alternator at full performance, and that made sense to me given it was a new alternator installed just a month before!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The vacuum issue, on the other hand, was a bit more perplexing. We cycled the boots and they worked, but the indicator continued to stay maxed out. With<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the prospect for icing always present<\/p>\n\n\n\n

in the North Atlantic regardless of season, I elected to return to Reykjavik to troubleshoot. The mechanics there quickly diagnosed a stuck regulator<\/p>\n\n\n\n

in the wing root on the right side and resolved the problem. By this time, however,  the airport would be closed at Wick if we continued on. So, darn<\/p>\n\n\n\n

it all, we HAD to spend another night in Reykjavik! We all took that in good humor and were happy to eat more Minke whale and devise hilarious business plans to use Twin Cessnas to<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cimport, possibly legally\u201d this incredibly delicious meat (think the best Kobe beef you\u2019ve ever had, and then better\u2026) to the US! Whaling ethics aside, (and consider that one whale is equal to about a thousand sheep) \u2014 well, it\u2019s just spectacular and I highly recommended you try it!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reykjav\u00edk to Wick \u2013 Second Departure<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

With the previous day\u2019s issues resolved, we woke to an even nicer day in Reykjav\u00edk. However, the weather in Wick was fogged-out with a ceiling at worm height, and with visibility as if the worm had cataracts. Great!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The local forecast had the fog lifting around noon. Or maybe 1 or 2 or possibly not at all.  So, with that solid forecast, we calculated fuel needed for a diversion to either Shetland to the north of Wick, or Stornoway in the Hebrides to the southwest. Weather at our alternates would be good all day, and fuel was more than ample for either.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With the previous day\u2019s gremlins banished, we departed with \ufb01ngers crossed that the ocean fog at Wick would clear by the time we got there. It was a calm and beautiful crossing as we were passed from Iceland Oceanic Control over to Scottish Control. And when my eyes picked up the coast of Scotland, the 130 years of living in North America gave way to the inexplicable draw that \u201cthe old sod\u201d has on so many of us Scots abroad. I swear I could hear bagpipes, taste the peated Scotch, and see Brigadoon materializing in the mist as we drifted over top the west coast of the highlands!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As we crossed over the west coast, control brought us lower and lower, setting us up for the full approach at Wick. With satellite texting on-board, Jim had been communicating regularly with our ground support crew in the US who were sending us current METARS that showed the fog had been lifting and that visibility was such that we would at least get in with an approach. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

However (and I\u2019m guessing Mike and Jim may not agree with this), I am fairly certain that because there was a Scotsman on board (me), at 5000 feet the fog fully dissipated and gave us a view of Wick airport off our right. What a sight! Queue the bagpipe; we\u2019d made it!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We broke off the full approach to go visually\u2026we thought. But apparently you have to speci\ufb01cally say, \u201cI am requesting cancellation of IFR and proceeding VFR\u201d rather than just<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cairport in sight, requesting VFR.\u201d Not saying the magic words will cost you about 65 pounds ($85 USD) in additional service fees over a VFR arrival!  (Note for next time \u2014 always fully cancel IFR and con\ufb01rm it has been cancelled whenever arriving visually in the UK!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wick to Dundee and back to Wick<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
L to R: James, our new friend Arnor Styrmisson, and me – on our way home.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We reveled in arriving at Wick, one of the original Crimson Route WWII airports still in operation. The folks at the FBO there are superb, and those done \ufb02ying for the day get a shot of Old Pulteney \u2013 the local Scotch from the area. Jim and I would get that treat when we got back later that afternoon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With the extra night layover in Reykjavik, Mike was starting to get a bit tight on his timeline to hop commercial back to the US and resume his work schedule with American Airlines. With the perfect weather that had arrived<\/p>\n\n\n\n

(due to me being Scottish \u2013 I\u2019m sure of it!), we took advantage and made a VFR \ufb02ight at low altitude across most of the country from north to south in order<\/p>\n\n\n\n

to get Mike to Dundee and on a quick train into Edinburgh (landing fees were exorbitant in Edinburgh \u2013 something like $1,500!) This \ufb02ight was so achingly beautiful that all three of us had sore cheeks from smiling! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The late afternoon air was warm in Dundee as we took pictures and reveled in the accomplishment of bringing a Twin Cessna \u201cacross the pond.\u201d The culmination of the time Mike and I had spent planning the trip together was coming to an end and I had a sense of slight melancholy that this segment of the adventure was over. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

But this feeling lifted as Jim and I \ufb02ew back over the hills toward the Highland. The setting sun to the west was giving a warm glow with clouds only across the west side of Scotland \u2013 something most Scottish would say is likely \u201ca rrright bloh-ie lie!\u201d  But it\u2019s true, we had lucked out and gotten what was about the nicest summer afternoon and evening I\u2019ve seen in many months of traveling in Scotland previously!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back in Wick, and with a shot of Old Pulteney down, Jim and I settled in town over a great dinner and another dram, celebrating what had been an incredible achievement for me \u2014 to cross the Atlantic in my own airplane and return to the land of my ancestors. Quite a feeling indeed, and one I am not sure can be fully explained or shared. Some things are just beyond words.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Returning Home<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jim and I rented a car and drove the north coast of Scotland for a couple days, covering the remaining ground of the country I had not seen before, such as John O\u2019Groats at Land\u2019s End which overlooks the Orkney Islands along towards Ullapool. This is a ruggedly beautiful coast to see and worthy of a follow-up trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alas, the weather brewing in the Atlantic dictated it was time to go home. With the touring and sight-seeing behind us, the return trip was a contender for the \u201ciron saddle award.\u201d We had an uneventful and very peaceful crossing above the weather that broke by the time we stopped in Reykjavik for a quick night. Arnor joined us at the FBO the next morning to take Mike\u2019s seat for the crossing back to Greenland at Sondrestrom Fjord, which we had made by mid-afternoon. Refueled with 100LL and Icelandic sandwiches Arnor had packed (Shrimp sandwich\u2026one of the best things I think I\u2019ve ever had\u2026who knew!), we blasted off for Iqaluit where we landed in perfect setting sun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All the time zones we crossed on the way home had more of an impact on me than the trip east, where the frequent stops gave us time to adapt. I found myself awake very early, walking to \ufb01nd coffee and breakfast with Jim. Arnor, who was more adapted to the time zone, joined later, but even his extra sleep wasn\u2019t enough to out-wait the fog: 100 foot ceiling and \u00bc mile visibility!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At a reported 300 feet and 1 mile we decided to launch, but once we were rolling I\u2019m pretty sure it dropped back to about 200 and \u00bd – a fun departure to get en-route for what would be a few hours of IMC banging along below the freezing layer to La Grande, Quebec, our next fuel stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The weather cleared south of La Grande and we \ufb02ew peacefully in perfect conditions, making our way south across James Bay and Moosonee, Ontario, and then arriving through widespread convective storms at Thunder Bay, Ontario, where the company I founded and recently retired from has a townhouse for visitors to our Canadian of\ufb01ce there. Thankfully we were able to get the courtesy van from my friends at World Fuels at CYQT to take Arnor the thirty miles<\/p>\n\n\n\n

to the US border to process his immigration \u2014 a requirement for him before \ufb02ying into the US.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The day was perfect to clear customs at International Falls, MN. (Duluth Airshow had KDLH airspace closed for arrival at the time we were coming.) We landed and taxied up to my hangar in Anoka, MN, on a perfect July afternoon, where my wife and friend Brad were waiting. They had hung  a sign on the hangar door celebrating our ocean crossing which had been signed by many friends and family. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course, the bottle of Old Pulteney I\u2019d stowed in the nose of the 340 was opened immediately, and we all toasted the journey. The trip was an almost impossible thing to think of doing just \ufb01ve years earlier, when I \ufb01rst set out to \ufb01nd a twin engine airplane and get my multi and IFR ratings. And yet, here we sat sipping Scotch, having done exactly that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The dream of crossing an ocean had long been burning in me but it was my 340, the team around me, my friend Mike, and our new pal Jim, that made it all possible. I would do it again,<\/p>\n\n\n\n

and I would encourage anyone with the interest to do it as well. It\u2019s just a series of \ufb02ights connecting places where planes can go \u2014 no differently than anywhere else \u2014 except for the amazing scenery, newfound friends, and exotic experiences like eating Puf\ufb01n and delicious whale meat!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Download PDF of parts 1 and 2 of this article with all images, here. It was two o\u2019clock in the morn\u2026<\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":225,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[16,15],"class_list":["post-229","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel-and-trips","tag-340a","tag-atlantic-crossing"],"yoast_head":"\n340A Atlantic Crossing - Part 2 - twincessna.org<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"noindex, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"340A Atlantic Crossing - Part 2 - twincessna.org\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Download PDF of parts 1 and 2 of this article with all images, here. 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